What the Stones Say

A group of young men gather around stones to test their force

In Konso, one way a man demonstrates his strength or the amount of force he has is by lifting stones.   Until somewhat recently, the need to record exact ages was considered unimportant.  Instead, people identified themselves by what work they were capable of doing and what labor force they represented.  Lifting stones then became a method to demonstrate to others the work force one was capable of, that one was both young and physically mature, and where one stood in terms of strength within the larger community.

An attempt at lifting the largest stone in this courtyard

The lift is pretty straight forward: pick up the stone from the ground, bring the stone to shoulder level, then raise stone above head in a controlled manner.  Drop the stone behind to release.  Repeat with greater stones as possible to find one's level of strength compared to others.  

Taking on a large stone in the old village of Dokaatu, Konso 

I went straight to the largest stone of one courtyard in the old village of Dokaatu and found I could lift it as instructed.  My pride was short lived however after I was told that the stone I handled was relatively small in comparison to neighboring villages.  

Imported Art

A Child in Tears: "To be happy, we must not be too concerned with others"

Just about everywhere in Ethiopia I've seen laminated posters for sale or on the walls of restaurants, cafes, and the homes of friends or acquaintances that strike me as a little odd.  The posters that catch my attention more often fall into 2 categories: a combination of strange children with quotes and Photoshop fantasy.  I share this because I haven't seen anything like them prior to my time in Ethiopia.  Who knows, maybe I'll notice them elsewhere after I leave.

Photoshop fantasy in all its glory

How much for the enlightened baby poster?

Common Head Turner # 8

Sun's first touch.  Near the equator, the sun seems to travel straight up, making beautifully lit skies as brief as they are stunning.

Korkufa

Two Large Moringa Trees in Konso, Ethiopia

One of the most interesting and satisfying foods I’ve come across in Ethiopia is made from tree leaves.  In Konso, "midhaa" -leaves from the moringa tree - is eaten on a daily basis.  Sometimes midhaa is served on injera accompanying an assortment of other foods but frequently its eaten by its self, with bread, or cooked with dumplings made from corn, wheat, and/or sorghum.

Korkufa - Moringa and Dumplings (spoon optional)

Moringa leaves are nutritious and when combined with dumplings - a dish called "korkufa" - or meat it will fill you with strength and energy.  In Konso, korkufa is eaten far more frequently than dishes served with injera.  The people of Konso often eat korkufa with their hands but a spoon is used in some cases, as seen in the photo above. 

Saturday Meat Market

Saturday markets in Ethiopia mean fresh meat for many towns and villages in the rural areas.  With a small group of friends, I headed to the village of Aroge to enjoy their meat market where we reserved choice cuts from a large cow we spotted waiting to be slaughtered.

One butcher in Aroge making his cuts

The process from cow to cut meat was surprisingly fast and well organized.  First, the cow was killed, separated from its hide, and taken in portions to nearby tables where butchers waited, stationed to take requests and negotiate prices from meat buyers.  The butchers here were clearly adept, making the whole process seem effortless and almost artful.

Kidneys and chekina, just before we cut and ate them with injera and daataa

My party requested the kidneys and ‘chekina’, which is a meat along the lower back of the animal known to be great for eating raw.  After we received our cuts, we headed across the street to a restaurant that was almost entirely self-service.  We were provided drinks, injera, daataa (chili sauce), and knives but we had to cut the meat for ourselves.  We spent the next 10 minutes slicing the meat in bite size pieces before we feasted.  That was probably the first time I ate kidneys and definitely the first time I ate them raw.  For me, new textures and tastes are most difficult to handle when I know they are sourced from an animal.  Although keeping the food down proved to not be a problem, the advice to take de-worming medication every couple of months when consuming raw meat regularly was disconcerting. 

Timket (Epiphany) in the South

Dressed for the part, I cut some meat off the bone and join in the Timket Feast

The Ethiopian Orthodox holiday, Timket (or, Epiphany) recognizes the day Jesus was baptized.  Each region within Ethiopia celebrates Epiphany differently so what I briefly relate here might not be how people in places like Gonder or Mekele (cities within northern Ethiopian) would experience it.

In Ethiopia's southern region of Konso, I greeted Timket dressed with a traditional pair of Konso shorts, the Komfa, and scarf to match.  With a few recently made friends who were as welcoming as family, I shared a breakfast feast of meat (both raw and roasted) and t'ej - honey wine.  

One priest splashing holy water upon a crowd that gathered to celebrate Timket

A large Timket procession following the Tabot through a town in Konso  

After our meal we headed to a large field where we could observe a ceremony of symbolic baptizing for a crowd of Ethiopian Orthodox followers and took part in a large procession that followed a replica of the Tabot (the Ten Commandments) weaving a path from one church to another, singing, clapping, and rejoicing along the way.

Chekka, Hot Beer in a Drinking Gourd

Chekka and Drinking Gourd

Chekka is the beer of Konso people.  It is made from corn, sorghum, and/or wheat.  Unlike beers that you’re probably accustomed to, this is one that is best served hot and will have you spitting out bits of debris as you are finishing your cup.  There are several distinctly different alcoholic drinks prepared at home in Ethiopia but this one is my favorite.  It's great tasting, thick with energy (grains), served in a novel cup, and the environment where chekka is served is typically welcoming and lively.

In most cases chekka is drunk from a H’aambarra (gourd).  Many drinking gourds in chekka houses have been used for a long time, sometimes ripping or breaking around the lip or bottom.  Repairing a broken H’aambarra simply means sowing it back up and adding some character.

Chekka Finished