Saturday Meat Market

Saturday markets in Ethiopia mean fresh meat for many towns and villages in the rural areas.  With a small group of friends, I headed to the village of Aroge to enjoy their meat market where we reserved choice cuts from a large cow we spotted waiting to be slaughtered.

One butcher in Aroge making his cuts

The process from cow to cut meat was surprisingly fast and well organized.  First, the cow was killed, separated from its hide, and taken in portions to nearby tables where butchers waited, stationed to take requests and negotiate prices from meat buyers.  The butchers here were clearly adept, making the whole process seem effortless and almost artful.

Kidneys and chekina, just before we cut and ate them with injera and daataa

My party requested the kidneys and ‘chekina’, which is a meat along the lower back of the animal known to be great for eating raw.  After we received our cuts, we headed across the street to a restaurant that was almost entirely self-service.  We were provided drinks, injera, daataa (chili sauce), and knives but we had to cut the meat for ourselves.  We spent the next 10 minutes slicing the meat in bite size pieces before we feasted.  That was probably the first time I ate kidneys and definitely the first time I ate them raw.  For me, new textures and tastes are most difficult to handle when I know they are sourced from an animal.  Although keeping the food down proved to not be a problem, the advice to take de-worming medication every couple of months when consuming raw meat regularly was disconcerting. 

Timket (Epiphany) in the South

Dressed for the part, I cut some meat off the bone and join in the Timket Feast

The Ethiopian Orthodox holiday, Timket (or, Epiphany) recognizes the day Jesus was baptized.  Each region within Ethiopia celebrates Epiphany differently so what I briefly relate here might not be how people in places like Gonder or Mekele (cities within northern Ethiopian) would experience it.

In Ethiopia's southern region of Konso, I greeted Timket dressed with a traditional pair of Konso shorts, the Komfa, and scarf to match.  With a few recently made friends who were as welcoming as family, I shared a breakfast feast of meat (both raw and roasted) and t'ej - honey wine.  

One priest splashing holy water upon a crowd that gathered to celebrate Timket

A large Timket procession following the Tabot through a town in Konso  

After our meal we headed to a large field where we could observe a ceremony of symbolic baptizing for a crowd of Ethiopian Orthodox followers and took part in a large procession that followed a replica of the Tabot (the Ten Commandments) weaving a path from one church to another, singing, clapping, and rejoicing along the way.

Chekka, Hot Beer in a Drinking Gourd

Chekka and Drinking Gourd

Chekka is the beer of Konso people.  It is made from corn, sorghum, and/or wheat.  Unlike beers that you’re probably accustomed to, this is one that is best served hot and will have you spitting out bits of debris as you are finishing your cup.  There are several distinctly different alcoholic drinks prepared at home in Ethiopia but this one is my favorite.  It's great tasting, thick with energy (grains), served in a novel cup, and the environment where chekka is served is typically welcoming and lively.

In most cases chekka is drunk from a H’aambarra (gourd).  Many drinking gourds in chekka houses have been used for a long time, sometimes ripping or breaking around the lip or bottom.  Repairing a broken H’aambarra simply means sowing it back up and adding some character.

Chekka Finished

Out of Addis!

I moved again and I extended my volunteer service till late April.  Finally I am out of the capital city, Addis Ababa, where road demolition is everywhere making ways for a new train system.  I will miss the conveniences of more dependable running water, electricity, and phone coverage but the rural areas have so much more charm.  Here is how the difference can be summed up for the time being - more to come latter because where I am at is both interesting and beautiful:

Addis Ababa, near Hayaa Hulet - where I lived for most of 2013

The road from my house - where I will be living for the next 4 months

Hiking in Ethiopia

Self Portrait on the Trail, Dera Ethiopia

Being primarily in areas within Ethiopia that are not lush in forests, mountains, clean rivers, and hiking trails that can be accessed without a scout with a gun to protect me, I've missed the Pacific Northwest. Mainly I miss all the day treks along the Cascades accessible from easy to access forest roads. That being said, the hike pictured here was pretty fulfilling: grave site of a giant war hero who supposedly stood over 7 feet tall started it. The small town where our hike began was named "tall" in the local language (Afaan Oromo) to commemorate him, though his real name is lost to time. Following this we came across obsidian deposits larger than my head, rivers, a waterfall, and camels. Yes, it's very different here and I still miss the PNW for all it has but this is pretty cool.

Jima Bus Station

Outside the gate and in the light, Jima’s bus station doesn't look so bad.  But you're likely to only interact with this place in the morning hours where you’d rather be anywhere else, fighting your way through a crowd for something greater than a bus seat.   

There are few places that I have dreaded going to within Ethiopia but bus stations make up the majority of them.  Jima’s bus station in particular is a difficult bus station to like because – for me- it represents the approaching, groggy hour of having to wake up before sunrise, haul baggage down a dusty or muddy road, a long wait in a crowded and poorly lit area until the station’s gate opens, and, when that gate opens, preparing for the rush of flying elbows and baggage of people aiming to get through inflexible gate posts.  

If you're traveling by bus and taking public transport to/from Central Ethiopia and Ethiopia's Southwest, you'll likely be passing through here.   

Justin Bieber's painted portrait seems to like the avocado juice served in Jima’s bus station cafe.

Tree Profile: Millettia Ferruginea

Man climbs Millettia ferruginea to check on seed maturity

Exploding pods releasing seeds of fish poison?  This is Millettia ferruginea.  In Ethiopia, people refer to it as birbirra.  Millettia ferruginea is endemic to Ethiopia and Ethiopians have known for some time that its seeds (when crushed and dumped upstream in a river) can stun or kill a lot of fish at one time.  Another interesting fact about Millettia ferruginea is that when its seed pods have dried, they blow apart and send their seeds flying.    

Exploded seed pod and immature seed pod of Millettia ferruginea

But this tree has other benefits besides.  Agroforestry practices have pegged Millettia ferruginea as a tree providing animal fodder, firewood (the dried pods burn just as well), charcoal, posts for construction or fences, mulch, nitrogen for the soil, shade for coffee, and beauty. 

Millettia ferruginea can be observed growing in a variety of climates but thrives between 1,000 – 2,500 meters above sea level.

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References

A Selection of Ethiopia's Indigenous Trees: Biology, Uses and Propagation Techniques - Legesse Negash